Monday, July 14th, 2008

It is 6:40 pm on Monday, July 14th, 2008. I am lying in the boat about 10 miles from North Tonawanda, 9 miles from Lockport, tied into an ancient barebones marina, the “Amherst”, though I don’t think it is near Amherst, the suburb of Buffalo. No town, restaurant, motel, store. I stopped at about 3:30 due to threatening skies – just a threat so far. Could probably have put my tent up but don’t want to risk wet stuff.
Left Canandaigua with Jean about 8:15 this morning after hectic last minute preparation and getting the Stine House ready for rental. The week’s weather forecast looked favorable. As we approached Buffalo (about 90 miles), some large thunderheads developed, probably to the south, and already downwind. We found a “put in” at North Tonawanda easily, did last minute jobs, like filling 5 gallon ballast bags-I’d found that the escapade sails better with weight in the stern- prepared the sail and set off at about noon under pedal power- not much wind then, and crowded narrow waterway. Lots of people, boats, kayaks, bikes on pontoons. Soon able to raise the sail. Wind, although strong and steady above ground level as told in the trees, was very squirrelly at canal level, both in gusts and frequent changes of direction, plus completely calm spots. Rarely could I hold a course and sail setting for 30 seconds. At one point the wind was so strong I had to let go of the sheet. This concerned me, so I lowered the sail and attempted to lash it, but could not keep it from dragging in the water. Plus it offended my nautical esthetics. So when things (me, the wind) calmed down I raised the sail and the next time high winds came, I released the sheet and let the sail luff downwind. By applying a little pressure to the clew (the part of the sail where the boom and lateen meet), I could both steer and capture some wind energy. Not very elegant. I did this off and on according to conditions, increasingly “competently”. I pedaled through flat spots, and all in all, with the 1 to 1 ½ mph current, figured I was doing 4 to 5 mph, without pushing
In the course of three hours I encountered 4 boats westbound- sport craft, large cruisers, some fishermen, and was overtaken by 4 boats- houseboat/canal boat, bulky cruisers. Not much traffic.
Abundant wildlife. Legions of Canada geese, mallard families, two other species of duck, 2 great blue herons, one buteo, three kingfishers, many barn swallows (nesting under docks), and kingbirds, feeding young. The kingbird and swallow young, newly fledged, were lined up on branches, still expecting full service from mom and dad. Many purple grackles, cardinals, blue jays.
Still by 7:10 no rain- I could have gotten to Lockport but this felt fine for the first day. The sail is still very much in trial mode with much awkwardness in attempting to get the sail and boat cover arranged, plus air mattress, sleeping bag, food and other storage. At least this marina (the tie-up cost $8.40) has good restrooms. I hope to get a full day tomorrow.
The Canal is mostly murky, sometimes downright yucky with frequent dead fish. Swimming is not for me. Abundant foliage. Usually paths or roads along both sides. Lots of private homes with docks- the homes looking kempt, the docks often is disrepair, as though the owners had outgrown or tired of canal travel or sport. Quite a sense of bustle so far, this near to Buffalo. About 8:00 p.m. the wind stopped; sky dramatic with large dark cumulus and bright setting sun. A few drops of rain.